Tulunadan Cuisine
Oh Neer Dosa — just the thought triggers my taste buds, especially on a rainy evening while thinking about what to prepare for a light, comforting dinner. My mind travels back in time to Mangalore, where I stayed during my studies. Nestled in southern Karnataka, Mangalore boasts a vibrant culinary heritage influenced by its neighboring regions and diverse communities.
Whether it’s the wholesome vegetarian dishes of the Udupi or Saraswat Brahmins, the rich non-vegetarian offerings of the Mangalorean Catholic community, or the seafood-forward cuisine of Tulunadu — each reflects the colorful character of one of South India’s most diverse culinary landscapes. Coconut and curry leaves play a central role in most dishes here.
Some typical delicacies include Neer Dosa — a soft, thin rice pancake; Sannas — fluffy, steamed fermented rice cakes; Ragi Dosa, Kori Rotti — crispy flaked rice served with chicken curry; Mangalorean Fish Curry, Kane Rava Fry — lady fish coated in semolina and fried; and the flavorful Kori Gassi — a coconut-based chicken curry.
Neer Dosa
Ingredients:
Raw rice – 2 cups
Coconut milk – 1 cup
Salt – to taste
Water – 3 cups
Method:
Soak rice for 2 hours. Grind with coconut milk to a fine batter.
Add salt and water to make a thin, pourable batter.
Heat a non-stick pan, pour a ladle of batter and swirl to form a thin pancake.
Cook only one side on low flame. Once done, fold into triangles.
Serve with Kempu Chutney, Sambar, or Kori Gassi.
Kori Gassi (Chicken Curry with Coconut)
Ingredients:
Chicken – 1 kg, curry cut
Grated coconut – ½ cup
Coconut milk – 1 cup
Bedgi red chilli – 10 nos
Kashmiri chilli powder – 1 tsp
Turmeric powder – ½ tsp
Ginger-garlic paste – 1 tbsp
Sliced onion – 1 cup
Chopped onion – ½ cup
Chopped tomato – ½ cup
Coriander seeds – 1 tbsp
Cumin seeds – ½ tsp
Methi seeds – ½ tsp
Garam masala – ½ tsp
Coconut oil – 15 ml
Curry leaves – 1 sprig
Coriander leaves – 2 tbsp
Method:
Marinate chicken with ginger-garlic paste, Kashmiri chilli powder, turmeric, and salt. Set aside.
Dry roast coriander, cumin, methi seeds, and red chillies. Sauté with chopped onions, grated coconut, and tomato. Cool and blend to a fine paste.
Heat coconut oil in a pan, add curry leaves and sliced onion, and sauté well.
Add the marinated chicken, remaining turmeric, and mix well.
Add the ground masala, sauté with chicken, then add water. Cover and cook until the chicken is tender.
Add coconut milk, simmer gently, adjust salt, garnish with coriander leaves. Serve hot with Neer Dosa or rice.
Kempu Chutney (Red Chilli Chutney)
Ingredients:
Whole red chilli – 100 gm (soaked till soft)
Garlic – 25 gm
Cumin seeds – 1 tsp
Jaggery – 1 tbsp
Tamarind – 1 tsp
Salt – to taste
For tempering:
Mustard seeds – 1 tsp
Curry leaves – 1 sprig
Asafoetida – 2 gm
Oil – 1 tbsp
Method:
Grind soaked chillies with cumin, tamarind, garlic, jaggery, and salt into a fine paste.
Heat oil, splutter mustard seeds and curry leaves, add asafoetida.
Pour tempering into the chutney and serve with Neer Dosa.
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